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“খাদ্যরসিক বলতে যা বোঝায় আক্ষরিকঅর্থে আমি তা নই। তবে জিভে জল আসা হরেক কিসিমের রসনার গপ্পো কেউ যদি শোনাতে বসে তাহলে তা শোনার ইচ্ছে যে হয় না এমনও নয়। আসলে যেকোনও রেসিপির ইতিহাস মানে তো শুধু সেই খাদ্যবস্তুটির পাকপ্রণালীটুকু জেনে নেওয়া নয়, ইতিহাসের দীর্ঘ পথ বেয়ে কীভাবে তা শেষপর্যন্ত আমাদের পাতে এসে পড়ল তার পুরো কাহিনীটিকে তারিয়ে তারিয়ে উপভোগ করা। আর তখনই খাবারের কথা বলতে গেলে এসে পড়ে আরো অনেক কথা। সংস্কৃতি, ধর্ম, রাজনীতি, অর্থনীতি এককথায় একটা গোটা সভ্যতার সামগ্রিক একটা ছবি বেরিয়ে পড়তে শুরু করে তার থেকে।
আমাদের বাংলায় এমন স্বাদের বই কত লেখা হয়েছে জানি না, তবে নীলাঞ্জন হাজরার “কাবাব কিসসা” আমার পড়া এই জাতের একমাত্র বই। আসলে আমরা যাকে বলি well-researched বই ‘কাবাব কিসসা’ শুধুমাত্র সেরকম একখানি বই হলে কথা ছিল না, অজানা হাজারো তথ্যের সঙ্গে এ বইয়ে সংমিশ্রন ঘটেছে লেখকের বিরল অভিজ্ঞতার। আর সেটাই বইটিকে অন্য মাত্রা দিয়েছে। কলকাতার নাখোদা মসজিদ সংলগ্ন জাকারিয়া স্ট্রিট, দিল্লির কাবাবওয়ালি গলি, নিজামউদ্দিনে ‘বাওলি গেট’ ফুড স্ট্রিট, লখনওয়ের টুন্ডে কাবাবি, পাটনার দরিয়াপুর, হায়দরাবাদের নামপল্লি, শ্রীনগরের হজরতবাল মসজিদের আশপাশ, করাচির বোট বেসিন ফুড স্ট্রিট, লাহোর কেল্লা, ইরানের তেহরানের পথঘাট, আজেরবইজানের ত্যাবরিজ থেকে মার্কিন মুলুক, ব্রিটেন, ইতালি, অস্ট্রিয়া, হাঙ্গেরি, গ্রিস, তুরস্ক, বাংলাদেশ কোথায় না কোথায় লেখক গেছেন তার রসনাকে তৃপ্ত করতে। সেই বিপুল অভিজ্ঞতার সঙ্গে বৈদগ্ধের মিশেলে এই বই। আমার কাছে এহেন একটি বই পড়ার অভিজ্ঞতা সত্যিই এই প্রথম।
মন খারাপও হয়। খাদ্য রাজনীতি এদেশে আজ যে জায়গায় গিয়ে পৌঁছেছে সেখানে লেখকের খেদ মনকে বিষণ্ন করে তোলে। খাদ্যের ঐতিহ্যকে লেখক বলেছেন এক ‘intangible heritage’। অমূল্য সাংস্কৃতিক ঐতিহ্য। ‘তাকে তুলে দেওয়া আসলে কোনও প্রাচীন স্থাপত্য গুঁড়িয়ে দেওয়ার থেকে কম অপরাধ নয়।’ খাদ্যের এই ঐতিহ্যকে খুঁজতে গেলে কীভাবে পুনরাবিস্কার করা যায় সংস্কৃতির ইতিহাসকে তার বড় উদাহরণ এই বইয়ের একেবারে প্রথম কিসসা ‘রামায়ণী কাবাব’। ২০০ পূর্বসাধারণাব্দ থেকে ২০০ সাধারণাব্দ অবধি চারশ’ বছর ধরে পরিবর্ধিত হতে থাকা রামায়ণ মহাকাব্যের সময়কাল মনুস্মৃতি রচনারও সময়কাল। সেই মনুস্মৃতিকে শিরোধার্য করেই আজকের সামাজিক আচরণ তথা খাদ্যাভাস ঠিক করে দিতে চাইছে মৌলবাদীরা। লেখকের মন্তব্য, ‘রামায়ণে যে হারে রাম লক্ষণকে মাংস খেতে দেখা যাচ্ছে তাতে তো মনে হয় তাঁরা মনুস্মৃতির বিন্দুমাত্র তোয়াক্কা করছেন না।’
এসব পড়ে মনে হতে পারে খাদ্য-রাজনীতির আলোচনাই বুঝি এ বইয়ের মূল বিষয়। আদৌ তা নয়। আসলে রসনার উৎস সন্ধান করতে গিয়ে কিসসার হাত ধরেই এসে পড়েছে এসব কথা। ঠিক যেমন এসে পড়েছে পোলোপনিসের প্রত্নতত্ত্ব খুঁড়ে তিন হাজার বছর আগের জনজীবনের কথা কিম্বা জাফরান বা সুমকের মতো সুগন্ধী মশলার ইতিহাস-সংস্কৃতি-বিজ্ঞান। এসব কিসসা কখনও যেমন সুপ্রাচীন ইতিহাসকে নতুন করে হাজির করে, অন্যদিকে কখনও তা আমাদের কবিতার রাজ্যে নিয়ে যায়। অধ্যায় চারে এমনই ‘খৈয়ামি কাবাব’-এর কিসসা পড়তে গিয়ে কখন যে কাবাব ভুলে ওমর খৈয়ামের কবিতার রাজ্যে ঢুকে পড়েছি টেরই পাইনি। কিসসা থেকে কবিতা, কবিতা থেকে সুপ্রাচীন রেসিপির ঐতিহাসিক কিতাব, এককথায় এ হল যাকে বলে এক্কেবারে জমজমাট বই।
বেশ কিছু দুর্মূল্য রঙিন প্লেট বইটির মর্যাদা যেন আরো বাড়িয়ে দিয়েছে। সেই সঙ্গে সঙ্গত করেছে উর্দু-বাংলার মিশেলে লেখকের অননুকরণীয় এক বাচনভঙ্গী। আহা! মন ভরে যায়।”
–পার্থপ্রতিম মণ্ডল


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